An early crisp and cold morning started the day at the Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi. The oldest hotel in East Africa opened its doors in 1904 and today still remains an icon.
Our drive to Samburu started at 6:30 a.m. as we negotiated morning traffic and on to the highway to Thika. Thika is a town in hilly terrain in Kiambu county and world renown for its fruit, primarily pineapples, and coffee farming. Driving through this region is so stimulating…cool breeze in your face and lush plantations all around.
Our journey continued through Karatina and Nanyuki where we could see Mount Kenya, the tallest mountain in Kenya and second highest in Africa after Mount Kilimanjaro.
After Nanyuki we passed through the Laikipia region known for its private game reserves. More on a visit to Laikipia in another post. We soon reached the town of Isiolo and had to refuel and grabbed a small bite. There was apparently some unrest in the region at that time and we had to wait for other vehicles to form a convoy with armed soldiers. While waiting we had a friendly conversation with a fruit seller named Halima. It was not often they came across Indians from India.
After a short wait we were soon on our way.
We soon reached the Ngaremara Gate outside Buffalo Springs Game Reserve. After quick entry procedures we soon reached Samburu Serena Lodge just in time for a late lunch.
After an hour or so we were soon on our way crossing over the Uwaso Nyiro River Bridge in to Samburu National Park.
Samburu National Park is in the semi-arid region North of the Laikipia Region and close to the Somali border. The almost desert like ecosystem. The flora and fauna of Samburu National Park along with Shaba National Reserve and Buffalo Springs National Reserve survive on the Ewaso Nyiro River, which is the longest river in Kenya. It waters are the lifeline for abundant species of mammals, plants and birds.
Samburu National Park is also home to some of the rare northern species such as the Grevy’s Zebra, Somali Ostrich, Reticulated Giraffe, Gerenuk and the Beisa Oryx. This park is one of my favourites in Africa just because its its wonderful landscape, palm groves and riverine forests.
As soon as we entered the park, we saw many baboons and vervet monkeys( better known as the blue ball monkeys due to the colour of their genitalia). It was thoroughly enjoyable to see troops living together as a family with young ones scampering around with no care in the world.
Proceeding further we chose to drive around on the banks of the river.Driving down the river bank we came across many herds of Elephants, gazelles, impala.
As we rounded a bend, we were blocked by The Serena hotel Land Cruiser which had a puncture right on the bank of the river and we stopped to help. We had no choice but to stop just off the trail leading to the river…a trail…used by the elephant herds. Just as luck would have it a mother and her baby decided to leave the river and head into the bush…right behind us. Disturbed by the commotion of the tyre change, her motherly instinct kicked in to protect her baby had she charged our vehicle. But a few loud engine revs from our driver, made her have second thoughts and she quickly sauntered into the bush her baby trotting by her side.
After this exciting incidence we forged on and away from the river and across a Secretary Bird. After a long stretch of emptiness we came across a Cheetah and her cub in the grass. A few close up pictures and we were on the way back to the Lodge for dinner and off to bed.
Location: Marakele National Park, Limpopo Province. South Africa
Travel Date: April 2015
Driving 4 hours North West of Johannesburg after a 20-hour flight from Mumbai was one of the craziest things I could do…or so I thought.
Driving up N1 on crisp blue winter morning from Jo’burg’s O R Tambo International Airport towards Polokwane in a brand new rental Mercedes C-class, Helen’s words kept haunting me…its magical.
What was so magical? Well the drive itself was magical to start of with.
A very comfortable 120 km/h on the speedometer…cruise control on…check. Feet up on the seat…check. Sunroof open…check. Coffee in hand…check. Now I am set. The fields roll out in front of me as I whizz down the hard top.
Cruising down that highway I again thought to myself. Why did I do this? My answer came 4 hours later as I turned off the highway to pass Hoopsdal Police Station (my last landmark before the entry gate). Here Mac the security guard greeted me with a indemnity form stating that I am now responsible for my own life and property. Fair enough. Wild animals are unpredictable just as most humans. Signed off and was ready to go. Before I took off…Mac gave me last minute instructions. Follow the road for 7 kms. Cross the wooden bridge…then take a right.
Sounds like fun just 7 kms to go before a hot shower and a cold beer. I was wrong. This was the longest 7 kms I ever drove. Mercedes Benz C –Class…bad move. I had to watch every bump and stone in the road, these vehicles aren’t designed for dirt tracks. So here I am with my nose stuck to the windscreen and staring straight down in front of me when I see it! Fresh elephant poo! I see some trees knocked down as well. Now I am worried.
Elephant dung, knocked down trees and I am thinking Male elephant in musth is probably the worst thing that you can encounter in the wild. Musth is a period when a male elephant’s testosterone is at its highest. This bloke is ready to mate and gets extremely aggressive. Best way to recognise an elephant in musth is the secretion from its temporal duct behind the eye which make it look as though its crying.
Now I am on my guard as I inch forward with my foot now hovering between the brake and accelerator. More destruction and I head on. More dung too…and then I see…HER.
Very docile chomping away on the leaves not giving a hoot about my presence. I pull over to have a look. All is well she is happy and I am too as I take off leaving her gazing at me with utmost disinterest.
Finally I arrive at the lodge with a few impala encounters skipping, hopping and darting all around the bush like little children playing in the garden.
As I step out of my vehicle a big friendly “hello hello” greets me. Cold towel and a cold drink greet me on arrival as I am quickly chaperoned into the lounge area. Quick introductions and as I sign another declaration form I look over my shoulder…and there it is. The Magic of Marataba, a stunningly beautiful mountain range with grasslands before it.
Remember I was there by lunch so it was a pale yellow range, which reminded me of the old western movies such as McKenna’s Gold. I half expected Gregory Peck and Omar Sharif gallop in front of the property.
I was then led to my tented suite. It was circular in shape with a deck overlooking the semi dry river in front. On entering the room I was hit by the coolness of the air conditioning.
The layout of the room was really spacious with well-appointed interiors. A large king bed stood in the middle with a writing desk off to the side . What got my attention was the open style bathroom with a free standing stone bathtub and a rain shower. Both looked out over the river and up to the mountain range in the distance. I never got to use any of them as I trotted out to the outdoor shower with the same view and cool river water soon ran over my head.. The attention to detail in the design of the room was absolutely impeccable. Everything was within reach but in its own space.
A quick brief about the property. Marataba Safari Lodge has 15-tented suites for 30 guests. Children above 6 of age are welcome. I saw a bunch in the pool while I was walking towards the room with a herd of impalas surrounding them. Took me back to the earlier thought of impala’s in the garden…here they were.
I am getting sidetracked…so children activities and babysitting is also available and its possible to have a family room configuration as well. The open plan lounge and dining area are very spacious and inviting. They also have recliners on the deck to stare out in the distance at the mountains. I saw an old gent before I went for my shower on one of those recliners starting out into space, mesmerised by the scene that lay in front of him…and found him in the same spot, doing exactly the same thing when I return 40 minutes later for lunch. This was the magic of Marataba.
A little note for our tech savvy travelers. Wifi is available in the public areas. But honestly this is really not the place to be connected with the real world. Switch off and enjoy the magic of Marataba.
Lunch was light and easy. Gazpacho, salad and a burger. All extremely yummy and well balanced by Windhoek Lager. By the time I finished with my late lunch tea and coffee were set out just before our game drive. Hein our ranger who would take me out into the bush with another Dutch couple met me at the lounge.
I mention this, as this Missus was about to soon be the heroine of a saga later during the drive.
Driving through the bush we spotted a lot of plains game and birds and then we rounded a curve to come face to face with a white Rhino mama and her 2-year-old baby. A very nice sighting, as both were very peaceful and relaxed within a herd of Wildebeest only to be periodically disturbed by male impalas scampering around grunting as the rutting season was in full swing.
Leaving that lovely moment behind we headed over to the dam where I was scheduled to get on board MS. MARA. As we rounded a turn we spotted a large bull elephant in the bush just of the trail. As we approached he began showing some interest in us. Just as we passed him he began chasing us and Hein did the unthinkable…he stopped the vehicle…and switched the engine off. Now I am thinking to myself, back in East Africa we leave the engine on and if anything we rev the engine to say good-bye to the Massif. Not here.
They have a different thought process, which made solid sense. If they ran… the Ellie would chase and that’s not a good idea to teach these extremely smart blighters, as they will start chasing guest vehicles as the come up to the lodge… remember the docile female I encountered? So now I got it. In this haze I hear Hein’s voice talking to the elephant… calm and gentle telling him to go away. I look back and this large bull has locked eyes with the lady at the back. Slowly giving her the look over…men I say, they will never change.
For a good 5 minutes he is looking at her as he is thoughtfully chomping away at the brush. I might add his trunk is just 1 foot away from her. She could have been an attraction at Madam Tussaud’s, she was so stiff. I don’t blame her this was too close for comfort. No one was breathing and you could smell the fear in the air. Finally even the elephant had had enough. With a sidelong glance, as if to say “I’ll see you later mate” he sauntered off into the bush. Visible sigh of relief all over as we drove off to catch Ms. Mara.
As we reached the landing dock I saw the prettiest sight ever, there she was moored to the bank amidst the backdrop of those mountains again, which were now a pinkish bluish hue. Stunning! Off we went on the dam in Ms. Mara, which is a boat with basically two sets of inflatables on both sides and a deck for guest to relax and enjoy sun downers. I won’t go into details of this as words cannot explain the experience and the emotion on this ride. One has to experience this to understand.
With enough Droewors and Bells inside me it was time to rejoin the flying Dutchman and his lady love on a night safari back to the lodge. It seems they drove around a bit and saw some general game before they returned to fetch me and now as the evening got colder, we were all set to head back.
The lodge had transformed itself. Warm fires and lanterns lit up the parking lot and we were greeted with hot towels and glasses of wine and sherry. Total pleasure…with glass in hand we headed up to the bonfire overlooking those mysterious mountains again. Here we met up with the other guests of the hotel and swapped stories before each heading off to their tables for an early dinner. Dinner was again Table d’ hote and stunning. I distinctly remember the juiciness of the meat and the flavour of the sauce, before I hit the sack and into oblivion.
The next morning started off at 5 am with lions roaring in the distance. I quickly showered and ran up to the lounge area with the hope of spotting them from there while I sipped on some hot coffee. No luck but I could hear them calling out to each other as they got closer and closer. As soon as Hein turned up along with the Dutch we were off in hot pursuit. All the lodge vehicles had split up to try and locate them. It was Jomi who spotted them first. 4 of them, 2 males and 2 females. The females looked really hungry and one was in oestrus and the males, well one was extremely lazy and one had different ideas for one of the lionesses. We trailed them for over an hour, watching the females stalk a herd of wildebeest only to be constantly interrupted by the frisky male who had only one agenda…to mate with the female, making it impossible for the ladies to hunt. They gave up and we moved on. After a quick coffee break I headed over to the Marataba Trails Lodge.
PC More Family Collection, South Africa
Now we are talking. Set up in a valley with stunning views of the forest below is Marataba Trails Lodge, now renamed as Marataba Mountain Lodge. A five-suite lodge (maximum 8 people) built into the mountain. The concept “switch off”. No electricity, only solar lighting. No kids below 16 since everything is open to the wild and kids can be unpredictable on walks.
One single dining table for community dining as one would do at home. Really nice, considering there is nothing else to do here anyways in the evening.
The premise of this property is walking the trails around the property. Everything here is about nature. Early in the morning you choose your breakfast and pack it into your knapsack. Then off you go with one guide in the front and one at the back. The trails range from trekking over the top of the Kransberg Range to traversing through the gorges. The slowest guest determines the difficulty of the trek. It really doesn’t matter where you go, you will always encounter wildlife and that’s what makes this unique from any other property, as there are no vehicles to scare them away just you.
In the evening after a shorter walk one can sit by the fire pit and swap stories watching the sun lazily go down as the mountain range constantly changes colour… This is the way I will always remember Marataba…a place truly magical.
Tibet is a region on the Tibetan Plateau in Asia. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpa, Qiang and Lhoba peoples. It is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han Chinese and Hui people. The highest elevation in Tibet is Mount Everest, earth’s highest mountain rising 8,848 m above sea level.
The Tibetan Empire emerged in the 7th century, but with the fall of the empire the region soon divided into a variety of territories. The bulk of western and central Tibet (Ü-Tsang) was often at least nominally unified under a series of Tibetan governments in Lhasa, Shigatse, or nearby locations; these governments were at various times under Mongol and Chinese overlordship. The eastern regions of Kham and Amdo often maintained a more decentralized indigenous political structure, being divided among a number of small principalities and tribal groups, while also often falling more directly under Chinese rule after the Battle of Chamdo; most of this area was eventually incorporated into the Chinese provinces of Sichuan and Qinghai. The current borders of Tibet were generally established in the 18th century.
Following the Xinhai Revolution against the Qing dynasty in 1912, Qing soldiers were disarmed and escorted out of Tibet Area (Ü-Tsang). The region subsequently declared its independence in 1913 without recognition by the subsequent Chinese Republican government. Later, Lhasa took control of the western part of Xikang, China. The region maintained its autonomy until 1951 when, following the Battle of Chamdo, Tibet became incorporated into the People’s Republic of China, and the previous Tibetan government was abolished in 1959 after a failed uprising.
Today, China governs western and central Tibet as the Tibet Autonomous Region while the eastern areas are now mostly ethnic autonomous prefectures within Sichuan, Qinghai and other neighbouring provinces. There are tensions regarding Tibet’s political status and dissident groups that are active in exile. It is also said that Tibetan activists in Tibet have been arrested or tortured.
The economy of Tibet is dominated by subsistence agriculture, though tourism has become a growing industry in recent decades. The dominant religion in Tibet is Tibetan Buddhism; in addition there is Bön, which is similar to Tibetan Buddhism, and there are also Tibetan Muslims and Christian minorities. Tibetan Buddhism is a primary influence on the art, music, and festivals of the region. Tibetan architecture reflects Chinese and Indian influences. Staple foods in Tibet are roasted barley, yak meat, and butter tea.
Tibet is a beautiful and richly endowed region of our great motherland.
Jinato Hu
The Tibetan name for their land, Bod བོད་, means “Tibet” or “Tibetan Plateau”, although it originally meant the central region around Lhasa, now known in Tibetan as Ü. The Standard Tibetan pronunciation of Bod, [pʰøʔ˨˧˨], is transcribed Bhö in Tournadre Phonetic Transcription, Bö in the THL Simplified Phonetic Transcription and Poi in Tibetan pinyin. Some scholars believe the first written reference to Bod “Tibet” was the ancient Bautai people recorded in the Egyptian Greek works Periplus of the Erythraean Sea (1st century CE) and Geographia (Ptolemy, 2nd century CE), itself from the Sanskrit form Bhauṭṭa of the Indian geographical tradition.
The modern Standard Chinese exonym for the ethnic Tibetan region is Zangqu (Chinese: 藏区; pinyin: Zàngqū), which derives by metonymy from the Tsang region around Shigatse plus the addition of a Chinese suffix, 区 qū, which means “area, district, region, ward”. Tibetan people, language, and culture, regardless of where they are from, are referred to as Zang (Chinese: 藏; pinyin: Zàng) although the geographical term Xīzàng is often limited to the Tibet Autonomous Region. The term Xīzàng was coined during the Qing dynasty in the reign of the Jiaqing Emperor (1796–1820) through the addition of a prefix meaning “west” (西 xī) to Zang.
The best-known medieval Chinese name for Tibet is Tubo (Chinese: 吐蕃 also written as 土蕃 or 土番; pinyin: Tǔbō or Tǔfān). This name first appears in Chinese characters as 土番 in the 7th century (Li Tai) and as 吐蕃 in the 10th-century (Old Book of Tang describing 608–609 emissaries from Tibetan King Namri Songtsen to Emperor Yang of Sui). In the Middle Chinese spoken during that period, as reconstructed by William H. Baxter, 土番 was pronounced thux-phjon and 吐蕃 was pronounced thux-pjon (with the x representing tone).
Other pre-modern Chinese names for Tibet include Wusiguo (Chinese: 烏斯國; pinyin: Wūsīguó; cf. Tibetan dbus, Ü, [wyʔ˨˧˨]), Wusizang (Chinese: 烏斯藏; pinyin: wūsīzàng, cf. Tibetan dbus-gtsang, Ü-Tsang), Tubote (Chinese: 圖伯特; pinyin: Túbótè), and Tanggute (Chinese: 唐古忒; pinyin: Tánggǔtè, cf. Tangut). American Tibetologist Elliot Sperling has argued in favor of a recent tendency by some authors writing in Chinese to revive the term Tubote (simplified Chinese: 图伯特; traditional Chinese: 圖伯特; pinyin: Túbótè) for modern use in place of Xizang, on the grounds that Tubote more clearly includes the entire Tibetan plateau rather than simply the Tibet Autonomous Region.[citation needed]
The English word Tibet or Thibet dates back to the 18th century.[11] Historical linguists generally agree that “Tibet” names in European languages are loanwords from Semitic Ṭībat orTūbātt (طيبة، توبات) (טובּה, טובּת), itself deriving from Turkic Töbäd, literally: “The Heights” (plural of töbän).
Rock climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Due to the length and extended endurance required and because accidents are more likely to happen on descent than ascent, Rock Climbers do not usually climb back down the route.
Paintings dating from 200 BC show Chinese men rock climbing. In early America, the cliff-dwelling Anasazi in the 12th century were thought to be excellent climbers. Early European climbers used rock climbing techniques as a skill required to reach the summit in their mountaineering exploits. In the 1880s, European rock climbing become an independent pursuit outside of mountain climbing.
“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.”
― J.K. Rowling
Although rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to a distinct athletic activity.
J.K. Rowling
Aid climbing, climbing using equipment that acts as artificial handhold or footholds, became popular during the period 1920-1960, leading to ascents in the Alps and in Yosemite Valley that were considered impossible without such means. However, climbing techniques, equipment and ethical considerations have evolved steadily. Today, free climbing, climbing using holds made entirely of natural rock while using gear solely for protection and not for upward movement, is the most popular form of the sport. Free climbing has since been divided into several sub-styles of climbing dependent on belay configuration.
Most of the climbing done in modern times is considered free climbing—climbing using one’s own physical strength, with equipment used solely as protection and not as support.
Andre-Jacques Garnerin was the first to make successful descents using a canvas canopy from a small basket tethered beneath a hot-air balloon. The first intentional freefall jump with a ripcord-operated deployment is credited to Leslie Irvin in 1919. Parachuting, or skydiving, is a method of exiting an aircraft and returning to Earth with the aid of gravity, then slowing down during the last part of the descent by using a parachute.
Manually exiting an aircraft and parachuting to safety has been widely used by aviators (especially military aviators), aircrew, and passengers to escape an aircraft that could not otherwise land safely. While this method of escape is relatively rare in modern times, it was commonly used in World War I by military aviators, and utilized extensively throughout World War II.
“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.”
― J.K. Rowling
Although rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to a distinct athletic activity.
J.K. Rowling
Aid climbing, climbing using equipment that acts as artificial handhold or footholds, became popular during the period 1920-1960, leading to ascents in the Alps and in Yosemite Valley that were considered impossible without such means. However, climbing techniques, equipment and ethical considerations have evolved steadily. Today, free climbing, climbing using holds made entirely of natural rock while using gear solely for protection and not for upward movement, is the most popular form of the sport. Free climbing has since been divided into several sub-styles of climbing dependent on belay configuration.
Most of the climbing done in modern times is considered free climbing—climbing using one’s own physical strength, with equipment used solely as protection and not as support.
Hiking is the preferred term, in Canada and the United States, for a long, vigorous walk, usually on trails (footpaths), in the countryside, while the word walking is used for shorter, particularly urban walks. On the other hand, in the United Kingdom, and the Republic of Ireland, the term walking is acceptable to describe all forms of walking, whether it is a walk in the park or backpacking in the Alps.
hiking
Hiking sometimes involves bushwhacking and is sometimes referred to as such. This specifically refers to difficult walking through dense forest, undergrowth, or bushes, where forward progress requires pushing vegetation aside. In extreme cases of bushwhacking, where the vegetation is so dense that human passage is impeded, a machete is used to clear a pathway.
“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.”
― J.K. Rowling
The Australian term bushwalking refers to both on and off-trail hiking. Common terms for hiking used by New Zealanders are tramping (particularly for overnight and longer trips), walking or bushwalking.
J.K. Rowling
Trekking is the preferred word used to describe multi-day hiking in the mountainous regions of India, Pakistan, Nepal, North America, South America, Iran and in the highlands of East Africa. Hiking a long-distance trail from end-to-end is also referred to as trekking and as thru-hiking in some places. In North America, multi-day hikes, usually with camping, are referred to as backpacking. Another famous early exponent of walking for pleasure, was the English poet William Wordsworth. In 1790 he embarked on an extended tour of France, Switzerland, and Germany, a journey subsequently recorded in his long autobiographical poem The Prelude .His famous poem Tintern Abbey was inspired by a visit to the Wye Valley made during a walking tour of Wales in 1798 with his sister Dorothy Wordsworth.
Wordsworth’s friend Coleridge was another keen walker and in the autumn of 1799, he and Wordsworth undertook a three weeks tour of the Lake District. John Keats, who belonged to the next generation of Romantic poets began, in June 1818, a walking tour of Scotland, Ireland, and the Lake District with his friend Charles Armitage Brown.
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore. However, surfers can also utilize artificial waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave pools.
Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, when a surfer rides a wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee, or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats), and using foils.
“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.”
― J.K. Rowling
Although rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to a distinct athletic activity.
J.K. Rowling
Aid climbing, climbing using equipment that acts as artificial handhold or footholds, became popular during the period 1920-1960, leading to ascents in the Alps and in Yosemite Valley that were considered impossible without such means. However, climbing techniques, equipment and ethical considerations have evolved steadily. Today, free climbing, climbing using holds made entirely of natural rock while using gear solely for protection and not for upward movement, is the most popular form of the sport. Free climbing has since been divided into several sub-styles of climbing dependent on belay configuration.
Most of the climbing done in modern times is considered free climbing—climbing using one’s own physical strength, with equipment used solely as protection and not as support.
